Fuel Price Pro

Robin Green asked:


It seems almost everyone has basement dampness problems. Where does all that water come from?

Humidity can enter your house naturally in the air, in warm weather through open doors and windows, and through air leakage when the heat or AC is on, such as poorly sealed windows and doors, cracks in exterior wall plaster in older houses, cracks in upstairs ceilings, or attic hatches that lack proper weatherstripping. Anything that draws air out of your house, such as a woodstove, exhaust fan, or a low- or mid-efficiency furnace, will also pull outdoor air in.

So one way you can reduce moisture is to restrict the flow of fresh air, especially during humid weather.

Water can enter through your basement walls from outside. You need to direct surface water away, seal the outside of the foundation, improve drainage below the foundation, and you may even need to seal the inside of the masonry wall as well.

Aspects of your own daily life such as breathing, sweating, showering and cooking, can also create moisture when the house is closed up. The daily activities of inhabitatns can add as much as 20 gallons of water a day to your house.

Rain collecting in your driveway, or pouring out of an eaves trough, makes its way downhill. If the soil is porous around your foundation, or if there is a gap between the pavement and the house, the water will percolate through the ground or the crack until it meets the water table or is otherwise halted. Once it can’t flow down, it flows across, which is when it starts seeping through your foundation walls.

So keep surface water away from the walls of your house. Keep eaves troughs cleaned out and properly angled, and downspouts in working order with their outflow running away from the house. Your driveway should slope away from your house, or you can run a line of mortar along the gap between the driveway and the house to keep water that accumulates in the driveway from working its way down along your foundation walls.

Gardens, lawns, and other surfaces should also draw water away from your home, and if you have a sump pump it should drain far from the house as well.

Protecting your basement from groundwater is a bit more challenging and can be expensive. A basement contractor can dig a trench to your foundation walls from outside, and apply a sealant to the exterior below-ground walls. They should also backfill the trench with gravel and sand to improve drainage, and they can put in drainage tile at the bottom to draw groundwater down below the floor of your basement.

A more affordable option, if you have exposed masonry in your basement, is to scrub down the masonry to a hard, clean surface free of grit or mineral sweat, and use a parging compound to add waterproofing on the inside of your walls. This works for minor humidity problems but won’t solve serious basement moisture problems.

Any moisture you can avoid producing indoors will help cut down on humidity problems. You can’t stop breathing, but you can cook with lids on, and turn on the range hood when boiling water; you can cut back on showers or run the bathroom fan when showering; and be mindful of aquariums, decorative fountains, and other possible humidity sources.

If winter humidity is a problemIf you have humidity problems in the winter and your home is recently built and well insulated, it is possible that your home is sealed too well. A well sealed home cuts your heating costs, but if it’s too well sealed moisture will build up, as will off-gassing from synthetics, woods, carpets, and other materials that may harm your health. You might consider buying a heat exchanger rather than a dehumidifier if this is your problem. Heat exchangers let air flow in and out of your house, while keeping the heat in as the exhaust air is blown out.

Before go out and buy a dehumidifier to solve moisture problems that can’t be solved by the tips above, you should understand how humidifiers work, their rankings, how ENERGY STAR dehumidifiers are ranked, and how to choose the best model for your situation.

Dehumidifiers remove moisture from the air using a compressor, condenser coils, and fan. They work the same way a refrigerator works, except that their cooling power is used to condense water out of the air. Dehumidifiers have a humidistat that keeps them on until the moisture reaches a set lower level, or until the tank fills up, whichever happens first.

Dehumidifiers are grouped based on extraction capacity — how much humidity they extract from the air per day — and by tank capacity — how much water they hold. In the United States, extraction capacity is rated in pints per day and capacity is measured in quarts. In most other countries, extraction capacity is rated in liters per day and capacity in liters.

Once your tank fills up, the dehumidifier will not extract any water from the air until you empty the tank. If you place your dehumidifier near a basement floor drain, you can run a hose from the tank to the drain, so that you never need to empty the tank. (Most dehumidifiers come with an opening for a hose.) If you can’t do this in the room where you’re putting the dehumidifier, make sure you buy a unit with adequate tank capacity.

The energy factor for dehumidifiers is the number of liters or pints of water removed from the air per kilowatt hour (kWh) of electricity used. The higher the energy factor value, the more efficient the dehumidifier is.  So bigger is better — unlike the efficiency rankings for most other types of appliances.

ENERGY STAR dehumidifiers have energy factors ranging from 3.56 (excellent) to 1.2 (marginally efficient) with a median rating of 1.62. Only two companies, Therma-Stor Products and Munters Corporation, make dehumidifiers with an energy factor better than 2.2.

But bear in mind that an ENERGY STAR rating does not mean the dehumidifier is all that efficient — just more efficient than some others in its class. For example, ENERGY STAR rated dehumidifiers can have an energy factor of as little as 1.2, while the best score is 2.02 and the worst for a non ENERGY STAR dehumidifier is 1.0.

Always buy a dehumidifier that can handle the amount of humidity in your house. You probably do not require a pints-per-day rating above 25 unless your basement is sopping wet and at least 1,200 square feet in area, wet and at least 1,500 square feet, or usually damp and mildewy (but not wet) with at least 1,800 square feet.

On the other hand, ENERGY STAR units that can withdraw more moisture are typically more energy efficient because of the different capacity thresholds used to rate dehumidifierS. So don’t skimp and buy too low a capacity unit — overestimate rather than underestimate.

If your basement is very cool, buy a dehumidifier built to handle lower temperatures. Otherwise, the cold basement will cause frost buildup on the coils, which reduces their efficiency and may cause the motor to short cycle. If notice this short cycling, turn the dehumidifier off until the ice has melted and fallen into the tank. If the behavior persists you may need to replace the unit with a unit built for cooler temperatures.

Assuming you do own or buy a new dehumidifier, you’ll want to reduce your energy costs with whatever dehumidifier you own.

If your basement is humid, and the dehumidifier is on, keep the doors to the basement closed so damp air doesn’t creep in from upstairs.

Keep your dehumidifier coils and fan clean and free of dust. Some dehumidifiers include a washable air filter you can clean to get rid of dust build-up; if you have one, keep it clean.

If you replace an old dehumidifier with a new, properly sized energy efficient dehumidifier, and you tackle your moisture sources as best you can, you could reduce your electricity use by half or even two thirds over what you were paying before for the same level of comfort. But more likely, you’ll use a little less energy with a new and improved dehumidifier, while controlling your humidity more effectively, or you’ll use more energy (if you didn’t have a dehumidifier) but you’ll be far more comfortable and won’t be spending a fortune on electricity.

With all the news surfacing about the health effects of indoor dampness and the resulting mold and mildew, you’ll definitely benefit from addressing your humidity problems and buying an energy efficient dehumidifier. You’ll save money and be healthier.

Stan Stomp asked:


In December 2008 an Ice Storm barreled through the northeast knocking out power. Much of the New England states were left in the dark for several days while the rural areas went weeks without electricity. For some people they found refuge in a community shelter and for others, well, they were prepared - backup systems or a small generator. My family had a generator but, unfortunately it ran on gas and we ran out, the road we live on was littered with power lines and fallen trees. Three days past before town officials were able to go down the road with a loader to clear one lane. Once there was a lane cleared we went looking for a place to buy gas, after 40 miles of traveling and several detours we found a place that was able to pump the gas because they were on backup power from their generator. While pumping the gas tanks full and watching the panic of the society trying to function with no electricity, it was then and only then, I realized we have an addiction problem. 

    We as Americans take for granted the power that flows into our house from power lines. We take for granted that gas stations will always have gas for us -no matter how expensive. We take for granted that our oil tanks in our house will always be filled so we can live in a comfortable heated zone. The American culture for the last 120 years (since the invention of the car) has lived leaving a destructive carbon print on the earth.

 

    The point of this is we as Americans are addicted to fossil fuel energy whether it is gas or diesel for our vehicle, oil for our furnace, or electricity (generated from coal or oil plants). Like every good addiction breaking the habit is painful. Are we as a society really committed to changing or are we just willing to make small changes that really amount to nothing. Are we willing to invest money now in solar for our homes, community buildings, or even the streetlights that guide our way in the dark? Are we willing to place some wind generation on our hill sides, near the ocean, or any wind alley that could supply energy for society? Only you and I together as a working group willing to resolve our addiction to energy can answer this question. 

    We now have solutions to resolving some of our energy addiction; the new Government is focusing on green energy, clean burning coal, and hybrid cars for our future. Solar companies are making strides in improving photo voltaic cells, Wind generation companies continue to improve technology that can power a neighborhood. Wood pellet stoves can heat your home efficiently while burning clean not adding any more to the carbon print than the wood would if it rotted away. We are getting there as a society but, will our efforts continue with no days off till we have reversed the damage we have done to our fragile earth. Only time will tell.

Robin Green asked:


Dimmer switches can give a more relaxed feel to your home, and save you energy as well. But with the increasing prevalence of compact fluorescent lights or CFLs, many people are wondering what options they have for using a dimmer with these lights - or whether it saves more electricity to use a regular CFL, or to use incandescent or halogen bulbs on a dimmer switch.

Let’s start by putting to rest some misconceptions people have over the relative energy use of fluorescent, incandescent, and halogen bulbs.

Many homeowners put in halogen bulbs, starting in the 1990’s, on the mistaken idea that these lights are more efficient than incandescent lights. In fact their energy efficiency is pretty much the same as that of incandescents. So don’t think you’re saving energy by using them.

CFLs, meanwhile, are very efficient - it takes about one fourth as much electricity to light up a CFL as to light up an incandescent or halogen lamp with the same light output. They also happen to last about eight times longer than incandescent lights.

So if you are using a dimmer primarily to save power, you might be better off just switching your incandescent or halogen lights to CFLs, and keeping the dimmer switch on full, or going back to a standard on-off switch. That will give you more light for less power.

If you want a more mellow lighting all the time, one way is to put in light bulbs that aren’t as bright. Whether you go down from, for example, a 100 watt incandescent to a 60 watt incandescent bulb, or down from a 100 watt incandescent bulb to an 18 watt CFL, you’ll still get less light and you’ll use less electricity. Of course, the CFL solution will save you much more electricity in the long run.

But chances are you want the best of both worlds: the low running cost and better durability of CFL bulbs, with the flexibility to dim them when you don’t need their full light.

You may have heard that you cannot put a regular CFL on a regular dimmer switch. In fact you can, but it is not recommended, because it can really reduce the life of the bulb. There is no increased risk of explosion or fire from installing a regular CFL on a standard dimmer switch - you’ll only increase the risk of shortened bulb life. And since the higher price of CFL bulbs is offset by the fact that they outlive incandescent bulbs by a ratio of 8 to 1, putting regular CFLs on a standard dimmer destroys that cost advantage.

If you choose to dim CFLs, you have two real options: buy a special dimmer switch that is compatible with CFLs, or buy dimmable CFLs that are designed to work with standard dimmers.

Both choices leave you with the energy-saving advantages of CFLs, as well as the ability to dim those CFLs. But for now at least, dimmable CFLs seem like the more affordable option, because fluorescent-compatible dimmer switches are prohibitively expensive, while the price difference between standard and dimmable compact fluorescents is miniscule.

Let’s consider the total cost for both options, for a fixture with three 60-watt light bulbs. Let’s assume you already have a standard dimmer switch and regular incandescent light bulbs. If you want to upgrade to CFLs, your choices are:

1. Installing three 13-watt standard CFLs at $3 a piece, and a $49 fluorescent dimmer switch. Total cost: $58.

2. Going for three 13-watt dimmable CFLs at $3.50 a piece, and use the existing dimmer. Total cost: $10.50!

As you can tell, using an existing dimmer switch is a more affordable alternative. Since both options use the same amount of energy, in terms of payback period the solution with dimmable compact fluorescent lights is definitely much shorter.

Even if you need to buy a dimmer switch because you don’t have one, it still makes sense to go with a standard switch and dimmable CFLs. You can get a standard dimmer switch for under $10. Even a fashionable one for $25 is more affordable than a fluorescent dimmer at $49. And with the cost gap between standard and dimmable CFLs so small, the only way a fluorescent dimmer switch will be cost competitive is if its price drops substantially, which it probably will over the coming years.

If your only motive for using a dimmer switch with CFLs is to save money, and you don’t already have a regular dimmer switch, I would suggest you stay with basic CFLs and forego the dimmer switch. Use the money you save on the dimmer switch to buy more CFLs for other areas of your house. Dimmer switches resulted in major savings for incandescent or halogen fixtures because the bulbs were so wasteful. For example, my rec room has six 50-watt bulbs on a dimmer switch. By using the dimmer at about half power, we use 150 watts instead of the full 300 watts. Assuming an hour on each day, that would save 150 x 365 watts, or 55 kilowatt hours a year.

But if we were to switch those halogen bulbs to 13-watt dimmable CFLs, we’d save 81 kilowatt hours a year at their full strength. By turning them down to half, we’d only save an extra 13 kilowatt hours a year - that’s about $1.30 worth of electricity. Not really enough to make it worth considering this alternative.

Consumer response to dimmable CFLs has been less than overwhelmingly positive. There were certainly some teething issues with these lights - early burn-out, flashing light, and loud buzzing noises. These problems have been pretty much resolved in the more recent dimmable compact fluorescents. But if there isn’t a strong motivation for you to dim your CFLs, I would recommend sticking with standard compact fluorescents for a year, until the market offers a wider range of choices for dimmable fluorescent lights. Who knows - in a year or two, fluorescent dimmer switches could be as cheap as standard dimmers.

ELECOSN asked:


LEDs are solid-state semiconductor devices that convert electrical energy directly into light.

Thermal sources of light such as flames and incandescent filaments emit light when heated, either by chemical reaction (flames) or electrical heating (filament lamps). LED “cold” generation of light leads to high efficacy because most of the energy radiates within the visible spectrum.

Other common high efficiency light sources, such as fluorescent lamps and electro luminescent devices, also produce light without much thermal radiation outside the visible spectrum.

Because LEDs are solid-state devices, they can be extremely small and durable; they also provide longer lamp life than other sources.

Light is generated inside the chip, a solid crystal material, when current flows across the junctions of different material compositions.

An LED consists of two elements of processed material called P-type semiconductors and N-type semiconductors. These two elements are placed in direct contact, forming a region called the P-N junction. The composition of the different materials determines the wavelength and therefore the colour of light generated.

LED resembles most other diode types, but there are important differences. The LED has a transparent package, allowing visible or IR energy to pass through. Also, the LED has a large PN-junction area whose shape is tailored to the application. The device shown in Figure 1 is an AlGaInP LED because the semiconductor layers are aluminum (Al), gallium (Ga), indium (In), and phosphate (P).

Main LED materials

The main semiconductor materials used to manufacture LEDs are:

*Indium gallium nitride (InGaN): blue, green and ultraviolet high-brightness LEDs

*Aluminum gallium indium phosphide (AlGaInP): yellow, orange and red high-brightness LEDs

*Aluminum gallium arsenide (AlGaAs): red and infrared LEDs

*Gallium phosphide (GaP): yellow and green LEDs

 

Why LEDs?

LEDs have a range of benefits which is fast making them the best solution for real energy efficient lighting. Over the course of the next few years some aspects are expected to change significantly.

Lifetime

As solid-state light sources, LEDs have a very long lifetime and are generally very robust due to no mechanical or moving parts.

Incandescent bulbs have an expected lifetime of 1k to 5k hours, while good quality LEDs are often quoted of having a lifetime of 50k hours, more than 5 years continuous use. However it is important to to understand that the performance of LEDs degrades over time, and this degradation is strongly affected by factors such as operating current and temperature.

Low maintenance

The long lifetime of LEDs reduces the need to replace failed lamps, and this can lead to significant financial and environmental savings, particularly in maintenance, labour and recycling. This makes LED fixtures useful for installations in inaccessible locations, but if tasks like cleaning the light fixture are required, then the light sources could be replaced at the same time, negating the “low maintenance” advantage.

Efficiency

As a semiconductor device, LEDs are highly efficient. Current device technology is allowing the performance of these to be pushed to limits that exceed that of standard lighting.

The directional nature of light produced by LEDs allows the design of luminaires with higher overall efficiency.

Low power consumption

The low power consumption of LEDs leads to large energy savings that can often drive the installation of LED-based systems. Initial purchase costs start off higher, but can be proven to return the investment cost in a short period of time.

Brightness

Light outputs are constantly being increased and there are several products that have higher lumen output than traditional lighting.

Heat

LEDs do not produce heat in the form of infrared radiation (IR) unlike incandescent bulbs which makes them hot to the touch.

This lack of heat production allows LED fixtures to be used in locations where heating from conventional sources would cause a particular problem e.g. illuminating food, textiles, artifacts, etc.

However, LEDs do produce heat at the semiconductor junction within the device and good thermal management must be employed on high power devices to maintain operation life

Cost

In many applications, LEDs are expensive compared with other light sources, when measured by metrics such as “£-per-lumen”.

LED manufacturers continue to work towards reducing their production costs while at the same time increasing the light output of their devices.

However, the high initial cost of LED-based systems is offset by lower energy consumption, lower maintenance costs and other factors.

The initial cost may seem high, but take into account the electricity usage that is saved, they pay for themselves.

Electricity Cost savings from switching to LED Direct replacement bulbs

10W LED Bulbs Vs 75W halogen bulb running cost comparison

 

Small form-factors

LEDs are very small - typical high-brightness LED chips measure 0.3 mm by 0.3 mm, while high-power devices can be 1 mm x 1 mm or larger. There are many examples where the availability of small, high-brightness devices have enabled significant market advancement. The obvious example is in mobile phone handsets, where blue, green and white LEDs are now used in most models to back light keypads and liquid-crystal display (LCD) screens.

Instantaneous switch-on

LEDs switch on rapidly, even when cold, and this is a particular advantage for certain applications such as vehicle brake lights.

Colour

LEDs are available in a broad range of brilliant, saturated colours (although performance varies across the spectrum), and white devices are also available. Modules containing different colored LEDs (typically red, green and blue, or RGB) can be tuned to a huge range of colours, and easily dimmed. RGB modules provide a much wider gamut of colours than white LEDs or other traditional white light sources, which is a particular advantage in applications such as backlighting liquid-crystal displays (LCD’s).

RGB LEDs and colour mixing

LED characteristics change with time, temperature and current, and from device to device. For RGB LEDs, the performance of different colored devices changes at different rates. This can result in variation of lamp colour and intensity, and poor reproducibility.

LED Vs Halogen

LED Lighting Types

 

Now the LED bulbs are widely applied in household, office, street, shop, park etc for decoration and lightings LED lighting family mainly includes:

1. LED ball lamp

2. LED spot lamp

3. LED ground lamp

4. LED tube light

5. LED rope lamp

6. LED pool lamp

7. LED curtain lamp

8. LED Christmas (festival) lamp

9. LED ceiling lamp

10. LED road light

11. LED Solar light

Etc.

In a word, LED lightings will be the future of lighting, and it will definitely replace the halogen lights in soon future.